Patterns for dresses



(No Model.) 3 Sheets- Sheet 1.

A vJ. W'. LIVINGSTON. METHOD @BAND APPARATUS TOR CUTTING PATTERNS TORDRESSTS.

No. 307,664. Patented Nov. 4.1884.

Fig. l-

By his L/ltorueys,

N. PETERS. Phnm-mhugnphnr, wnshinglu". D. C.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

J. WP LIVINGSTON. METHOD oP AND APPAEATUS PoE SETTING PATTERNS PoEPRESSES.

Patented Nov. 4

INVENTO'R;

WITNESSES:

mm1 l I l f by Zus ttor/Legs,

l i M M N. PETEIS. PhnlD-ljlhogmphm'. Washllgon. D. C.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

. J. W. LIVINGSTON.

METHOD 0T ANN APPARATUS TON CUTTING PATTERNS TOR DNBssTs.

Patented Nov. 4, 18834.

WITNESSES:

Unirse. Stearns Pia-rarer ittica JAMES W. LIVINGSTON,A OF NEV YORK, N.Y.

METHOD 0F AND APPARATUS FOR CUTTING PATTERNS FOR DRESSES.

' ECIFIQ'AEEN forming part of Letters Patent No, 307,664, dated November4, 1884.

Applicaiion filed January 29, 1884. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern,.-

Be it known that I, JMEs W..LIviNesToN, acitizen of the United States,and a resident of the city, county, and State of N ew York, haveinvented an Improv/ed Apparatus and System for Cutting Patterns forDresses, &c., of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to an apparatus employed in carrying out my systemof cutting ont patterns for dresses and other similar garments. rlhehuman form being irregular and formed oi' broken curves, some convex andsome concave, it has been almost universally the custom to preparepatterns by fitting them over forms having a more or less closeapproximation to an ideally perfect human form. rIhis method requires anafter tting of the dress or garment to the person of the wearer.Attempts have been made to construct charts and scales for cuttingpatterns for such garments; but, so far as I am aware, these have allpossessed some defects or have not been complete. It has been my aim toapply to the human `form the principles of square measures-suoli as areemployed in measuring 'and shaping angular bodies-in order to obtainsuch accuracy in the cutting that,when the garment is cut and made itwill it and require no taking up or letting out. Therefore I call mysystem the System of Squares.l`

In order that my invention may be the better understood, reference maybe had to the accompanying drawings, wherein- Figure lisa view of thedrafting apparatus, which forms the principal feature of my invention;and Figs. 2 and 3 are views of the opposite sides of the reducing scaleor rule. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 show, respectively, patterns for the frontand side body, the back, and sleeve of a dress-pattern cut according tomy system and with my apparatus and scales.

Referring to Fig. 1, AA is the marginal square, the long branch A ofwhich forms the left-hand margin of the apparatus, and the shorterbranch A of which forms the lower margin or base. B is the squarebearing the sizeof-neck sca-le. C is the scale for height of shoulder,called front-shoulderscale. D is the scale for width of chest. E is thecurve for neck. F F F are three curves for the armsize. These scales areall employed in shaping the front of the dress.

Ihe upper and righthand sides of the apparatus are formed of acontinuous irregular curve. The upper side, G, is for giving the propercurve to the shoulder, and the right-hand side, H, gives the propercurve under the arms, which I call the French curve.77

For shaping the back, I is the back-shoulder scale, and J is the baekarmscale. All ofthe above scales are graduated to one-iifth-that is to say,an inch in the measurement ofthe person is represented in these scalesby aiif'th of an inch.

Having thus briefly described the principal features of the apparatus, Iwill now proceed to explain its use, beginning with the front of thedress. )Ve will suppose the measure has been taken,resulting as follows:around chest, 32; waist, 24; under arm,`8; front, 14, back, 16; hip, 42.These measurements are in inches with the tape drawn tightly. Lay theapparatus on the paper from which the pattern is to be cut, and draw ahem-line parallel with its edge and distant the width of the marginalsquare A. Place the long side of the square A even with this hem-line,(l in Fig. 4,) and make dots on the paper at 32 on the scales 13,0, andD. Note that 32 is the chest-measure, and that this governs all thesemeasures,viz: sizeof neck, height of shoulder, and width of chest. Nowmove the apparatus down and draw the shoulder-line (2 in Fig. 4) withcurve G from the size-ot`-neckseale dot to the frontshoulder-scale dot.Note that between the length of front 14 and length of back 16 is adifference of two inches, and this difference governs the shape of thecurve on shoulder. The greater this difference is the rounder will bethe shoulder. Therefore, in placing curve G to the neck-scale dot, placethat one of the numerals l 2 3, die., von curve G at said dot thatcorresponds with this difference of back and front. In this case it willbe 2. I have marked these figures with arrows, and written the shape ofthe shoulder it forms, as Wound, halfstoop,7 the. 5 but these arenotessential. Now draw down the apparatus, and draw asecond curved linefor shoulder half an inch from therfirst, to allow for a seam. New, todraw theneck-curve, (3 in Fig. 4,) place the arrow a on curve E at thedot made from size-of-neck scale B, and that numeral on the neck-curveIOO scale (at a)4 which corresponds with the selected numeral ontheNcurVe G 2 iirtliiscase) on the hein-line 1, Vand draw .theneck-curve. I will say. that no difference is made here for numerals 0,1, and 2, and the scale begins with these three numerals. ,I willalsosay that in korder to enable me to see the` drafting-paper1clearlyvand to draw the curves for the'neck andarnlhole the partsoftheapparatus lettered ac, y, and Je, and tinted, are cutout. The scales U,D,I, and J are, by preference, perl'o'- ,rated: in order to insuregreater accuracy in making the dots. Now,to draw the curve at thearm-size, (4 in Fig. 4,) place the arrow b (it the lower Aend of scaleB) at the dot made at 32 on'ches't-scale D, and bring the strai ghterside or' the arm-size curve F, marked foi-32, (chest-` f, nleasure,) tocoincide with the dot made at 32 inches for bottom darts.

on @shoulder-scale C, and draw line 4 around the curve F. This givesalong shouldersuited to a chest-measure of thirty-two inches; but if ashorter shoulder is required, this may be effected by setting the curveinside the dot at the point of the shoulder, as indicated by dottedlines in Fig. 4. Now place the long side of square A even with hem-line1, and the lower edge of its short arm A tangent with curve 4, and drawa cross-line, 5. Measure five inches downfrom this line and make dot con hem-line. Measure from neck down hemline fourteen inches for lengthof front down to waist at d. Measure from d down eight Place squareunder arm-size curvev 4, and measure down eight inches to waist-lineunder arm. Measure down six inches below waist-line for hipline.

In Fig. 4, 6 is the waist-line, and 7 the hipline.

I willnow briey describe the reducing scale or rule shown in Figs. 2 and3, and which is useful in laying out the dart/s and getting waist andhip measures. This scale is a dat rule about nineteen inches long andone and onefourth inch wide. It is `graduated in inches and halves onone side, and bears proportional scales-namely, waist-scale, under-armscale,

vandback-scale-on thelobverse side, Fig. 2,

and a back-hip scale and front-hip scale on the reverse side, Fig. 3.The edge is formed into a curve at e at one end, which curve is usedforshaping the darts, for the elbows of sleeves, and for other purposes.The waistscale K'is one-third, the back-scale L is onesiXth, and theunder-arm scale Mis one-fourth.

` The front-hip scale N is one-third, and the Yback-hip scale 0 isone-sixth. i The arrows fvand'g on the curve e, Fig. 3, indicate thepoints of the curve to place at the points of the darts to get fuller oriiatter curves, as desired. The arrows h and t on the waist-scale are toindicate the points of the darts.

I will nowproceed to describe how this reducingfscaleis used. Place thescale with the lower edge of its square end on the hem-line at'dot c,and let the upper edgetangent armsize curve 4, and make dots at h and t'for tops 'allowing one inch more for seam.

.curve 11.

of darts. The oblique line thusy formed is numberedS in Fig. 4, andthe/darts 9 9. Now place square end ol'redueing-scale at hem-line,

its lower edge coinciding .withdot d, and its upper edge coinciding withdot eight inches below arm-size curve 4, and drawwaist-line out to 24 onwaist-scale K. Now measure out from hem-line straight across and belowthe dot at waist under the arm, and mark or .dot the size of waist onthe underarm scale M, Now draw lines vertically from h and t' for centerof darts, and draw inthe darts with curved end e of the reducingscale,placing the straight edge of the scale or rule on the axial line of thedart, and carrying these lines down to the waist-line. The lirst dartshould be one and one-hall' inch from the hem-line, and they shouldbeone-half an linch apart on waist-line. Tof tinish the darts below thewaist, draw a line square across from the hem-line eight inches belowthe waist, and make dots on this line at ythe arrows (see Fig. 2) 'onthe reducing-scale along the edge oi'thetback-scale L. Draw lines fromthe sides ofthe darts down to these dots, either curved or straight, ascircumstances may re@ quire. The fullness of the dart is determined bythe measure under the arm down to waist. The less this measure is, thefuller should be the dart. To get the curve (11 in Fig. 4) at the backof the side body, place the arrow f on curve e on the reducing-scale tothe end of arm-size curve4 a-nd to the dot below marked for theunder-arm seam at waist, and draw Then draw back the scale and makeanother line an inch from the rst to allow for seam.` For drawing thelines under the arm for the seam between front and side body, measure infrom curve l1 at curve 4 one and one-hali'iuchwhere the chest-measure isthirtytwo` inches, and make dot j. At the waist get a point, k, midwaybetween the back-dart and the back-line on curve 11. Draw Jthe curvedlines 12 12 with the curve H on right side of apparatus, beginning atone or theother of the arrows im n, according to the rotundity re-vquired in the curve. For lhe present, measure under arm eightinches.Begin the curve at m, marked half-round." The curves drawn willintersect at k, and are continued to bottom of garment, forming lines 1313, by the curve e on the reducing-scale. The distance between lines 1313 sliouldbe one and one-half inch for all sizes. To g'et'front-hipmeasure, measure across from hem-line on hip-line (six inches belowwaist) withl the reducing-scale, and mark a dot at 42 on front-hip scaleN, this being the measure aroundhips. Then add half an inch more forsea-m. Now,with curve e on the reducing-scale, draw the line 14 kfromwaist down over hips. In cutting, the darto under arm is cut out and thepart p doubled to give proper form from arm over hip. To

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the hem-line a. Then,with the proper curve G or H on the apparatus, drawthe line 15.

I willl now describe how the pattern for the back is drawn, referring toFig. v5,whith shows the pattern for the back. Place the apparatus, Fig.1, on the paper, with long branch of square A even with edge of same.Make a dot through first one ol'I three perforations, q, for back ofneck, and atthe numerals 32 (chestmeasure) on the back-shoulder scale Iand the back-arm scale J. Now take the reducingscale and placeitspointat the point of the shoulder and at the rst dot made, and draw line 15.Then draw a line half an inch above this for seam. Take two inches offthe shoulder, and from the dot at this point drawaline, 16, with pointot' reducing-scale to the dot made at 32 on scale J. Measure down fromthis last-named dot a distance half aninch less than measure under armto waist, (in this case eight inches,) and make a dot. New placereducingscale across on a level with this dot, and measure from centerof back 24 (waist- 'measure)on the back-scale L; also, dot one inch forslope in center of back and one inch for width in center ot' back. Newplace the square endv of reducingscale at backv of neck and lay ofi'width of same for back of neck, as at 17 and then draw line 18 from endof this to dot at waist for slope. This gives one inch slope. Now draw aline, 19, from waist to edge of pattern six inches below. Now,with thecurve H on the apparatus, draw curved line 2O from the waist to armsize16, and another line one inch outside of this for seam. Now,from a pointhalf-way in line 16, take the curve H and draw line 21 to waistline,intersecting this line at the dot previously made for width in center ofback. Continue line 21 down straight as long as you want garment. Now,at siX niches below waist, measure from middle of back across hips withback-hip scale O, makingadot at 42, (measure ot' hips,) and add one inchfor seam; also, make a dot at three inches from center ot' back and drawline 22 through this dot to the intersection of line 2l with waistline.Now draw line 23 -through waist-measure dot and hip-measure dot, withthe curve and straight edge of reduc ingscale, and another line outsidefor seam, as shown. The part r is used twice to give fullness.

Fig. 6 illustrates the sleevepattern as cut by my chart ard scale.Suppose the measures to be: around shoulder, 18; elbow, 14; hand, 10 5length, 22-di1nensions in inches. Place the reducing-scale on the paperand make a dot at the line marker sleeve at elbow, and dot at lower sidesquare end of rule. Then move square end of rule down so that dot willbe at its upper edge, and draw aline, 24:, down to point. This givescurve at elbow. Now turn scale over end for end, and fit curve ye intocurve at elbow, and draw line 25 for top of forearm. Allow two inchesmore for upper arm than forearm, but proportional somewhat to length ofshoulder of dress being cut. Measure along line 24 four inches from topof sleeve, and square across (line 26) equal to half theshoulder-measure-nine inches in this case. Then draw line 27 diagonallyacross,

and dot at 3, three inches from upper end.v

Then draw line 28 across elbow, seven inches (half elbow-measure) long,and mark pointt two inches from upper line. Then at hand draw line 29equal in length to half the handmeasure tve inches in this case-and markpoint t at two inches from upper line. New draw lines 30 and 31 similarto upper sleeveline, (24 25.) Then draw curves 32 and 33 with curve H onchart. bines both under and upper part of sleeve, as will be wellunderstood.

I have now described how my apparatus and scales are employed in cuttingthe front, back, and sleeve of one style ot' dress, and this will besufficient to enable any one to use it for any and all styles ofgarments, thejudgment and experience of the operator being sufficient tosupplement what is given herein.

I will again call attention to the fact that the chest-measure, takenabove the breast, governs the size of neck, (scales B and E) the heightof shoulder, (scale 0,) width of chest, (scale D,) length of back andshoulder. (scale L) the arm-size, (scale J and curves F,) and the widthof back. governs the length of waist and shape ofdarts. The differencebetween front and back measures governs the shape of the shoulder anddetermines whether it shall be sloping or rounded. The side rule orsquare A being the base, the positions of scales B, C, D, I, and J withreference to it, as shown in Fig. 1, are all important. The shape ofcurves G and H and the neck and arm-size curves is also important.

As the correct size of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 and thereducing-scale shown in Figs. 2 and 3 is a matter of importance, I willsay that the graduations on square A A', and on the reducing-scale also,from 1 to 18, Fig. 2, are inches, and the drawings show these reduced toabout one-third the full size.

The inch-graduations on square A A and scales B C I J are not essential;but those on A A are very convenient.. A should, however, be astraight-edge.

This pattern corn- The length under arm IOO IIO

Having thus described my invention, I

tern for a dress or similar garment, provided back scale L, underarmscale M, front hip with a square,l A A', graduated Scales B, C, scale N,Aamd back-hip scale O, al1 )substarr l D, E, I, and J, the perioratonsq, Curves F, tialiy as and for the purposes set forth. and graduatedcurves G and H, all arranged In Witness whereof I have hereunto signed5vaud adapted to be used substantially as set my name in the presence oftwo subscribing I5 forth; witnesses.

4. The eombi11ation,withthe apparatus proi JAMES W. LIVINGSTON.`videdwithseales and curves, substantially as I Vtnesses: described,ofthe reducing-scale provided with HENRY CONNETT, 1o curve e, arrows f,g, 7i, and i, waistscale K, ARTHUR C. FRASER.

